REPOSTED FROM WWW.J-BODY.ORG∞ (this is edited) Originally written by Jermaine Holland jvhollan@gmail.com∞

By no means is this an all-inclusive FAQ, so feel free to add to it. I'll be adding to it later, myself. Things like fibreglass and seat brackets would be good to write about as I have zero to none experience with them. Other things I just don't have the patience to write about (tonight). I will some other time, or maybe somebody else will.

I hang out in this forum a lot, and every day somebody asks something about the following topics. I'm just writing this so that hopefully people will read it and we won't be continuously getting these same questions over.. and over.. and over. If you ask a question about something listed here, chances are you'll get referenced to this thread (how nicely is up to the referrer). If your question remains unanswered, or perhaps you're still confused, then don't hesitate to ask for clarification. Just don't do it in this thread - try to keep this as tidy as possible, with just tips for some of the interior work that gets done.

Ok, so here goes. Side note: installation instructions and whatnot are for third gen cars... I'm not familiar with 2nd gen. Sorry guys! Also, I should state that I'm most comfortable with 98-99 Cavalier Sedans. There may be a few discrepancies between 95-99 & 2k+ j-bodies, as well as differences between the Cavalier & Sunfire. But you can always just add to it

1. Painting my interior - this is something that comes up every day here. What kind of paint to use, how to do it, how this part comes out, and the list goes on and on. I'm going to try to answer just about every question possible related to painting your interior (wish me luck, I'm gonna need it!).

A) What's the best paint to use?
Well, I'm gonna steal a line from Event and say to strip the word "best" from your vocabulary. Now. If you do the prep work properly, spray paint will last just as long as say, auto paint from an HVLP gun. Feel free to use whatever floats your boat best - there are some amazing interiors done with auto paint sprayed using an HVLP gun (see Z2FLIP4's∞ reg for an example), and there are some great interiors that are done using spray paint.

B) Ok, so there is no "best" paint.

• Beware using Krylon Fusion. This paint does not hold up to heat very well. The best route to go after sanding is to use a Primer Filler, top it with an Automotive Grade Paint (you can find these in spray cans in the automotive section of walmart), and then top it with a high heat Clear Coat. Using Chroma Based Clear out of a spray gun is best though. When you spray clear, make sure its in a low humidity environment.

What should I use then? I personally suggest just using spray paint. It's cheap and effective, and gets the job done if you do it correctly. SEM products (available online at Your Auto Trim Store∞) are the oft-suggested spraypaints to use here; people have also had success with normal Krylon and DupliColor. What it really boils down to, as stated in 1.A, is that the prep work is typically more important than the paint itself. As Looney Tuner and Lowered Standard have both pointed out in previous threads, you should follow usage & recoat instructions to the T. Krylon has provided a few tips for usage of their Fusion line:

• Lowered Standard wrote:
• .
• I sent an e-mail to Krylon with a few questions. Here are the tips they sent me:
• .
• 1. New/unweathered plastic requires a paint thinner wipe down. Older/ weathered plastics require an ammonia based cleaner wipe down. These wipe downs are specifically recommended to kill the plasticizers which prohibit good adhesion. We do not have any testing data on whether the rubbing alcohol does the same job.
• .
• 2. You indicated 7 coats over the course of a week. Keep in mind that coats must be applied within 24 hours (chemical adhesion) or after 7 days (mechanical adhesion).
• .
• 3. The only clear product we have that can be applied over the Fusion is the Krylon Low Odor Clear (gloss or matte). Fusion does not require a clear coat, and many of our acrylic lacquer clear coats can eat through the paint (lacquer is a hot solvent).
• .
• Keep in mind the wipe downs and recoat times on the label. If you do desire a clear coat, use one of the Low Odor Clears.

C) Ok, how do I take 'x' out of my car so that I can prep it?
i) Front dash pad, radio/HVAC trim, door panels, rear deck, seats, center console:
ii) Dash trim closest to window: On Sunfires, this portion just pops out. On Cavaliers this is rather difficult (here's why∞) - I hope you're up for a long task. Follow the directions at Team Forward Motion to remove the front dash pad∞ and the radio/HVAC trim. Once you've got that done, your steering wheel needs to be pulled. See directions in question 17. What else? Passenger-side airbag has to go. All of the HVAC piping needs to be removed. The HVAC controls, radio, gauge cluster, steering wheel trim, windshield washer/blinker arms all need to be removed. As everything is coming off, you'll note that that one little trim piece is part of the entire dash. Remove the brass bolts and the entire assembly can be pulled out of the car.
iii) All the other trim in the car: This is all held in with metal clips... when in doubt, pull! It'll come out eventually.

D) Ok, it's out of the car. I want to sand it smooth before I prep & paint it.
That's fine. If you plan on sanding it smooth for a fiberglass look, break out your sandpaper now (120 to 240 to 320 works fine, in my experience). Sand it smooth, and then you're ready for the next step of preparation - cleaning.

E) Great. How do I clean it?
This is the most important step. Cleaning the surface allows the paint to create the most secure bond. I cannot stress that enough – clean it to remove all dust, oil, grease, and any other contaminants that may be on the plastic's surface. I suggest Simple Green; it's a very effective cleaner that leaves the surface literally spotless. A mild soap and water solution will work just as well!!

F) Paint time?
Yes! After you've finished cleaning it, decide whether or not you want to prime the surface. Although it's not necessary for certain paint (Krylon Fusion), I strongly suggest priming your surface. Use 2-3 coats, whatever floats your boat best. Keep your coats thin so that you don't have any runs... if you have runs while priming, sand it down and recoat. Allow sufficient time to dry, and then start putting on your color. 2-3 coats here should be sufficient... how much paint you use is entirely up to you. Again, make sure to use thin coats to avoid runs! Allow time to dry again, and then start your clear coating. I personally suggest at least three coats here; the clear coat is what will protect your paint from chipping, scratching, etc. Keep your clear coats thin to avoid runs

G) Can I use the paint on my vinyl dash?
NO. Unless you'd like to have a giant piece of flypaper as a dash, do not use paint on the vinyl dash. They make dyes specifically for this application. Some people have had luck with painting the vinyl on their dash, but I wouldn't suggest it. The risk just isn't worth it, IMO. Go take a look at Your Auto Trim Store∞. They have SEM's vinyl dye here∞.